chevy4life

I just got my parents old truck, its a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 4X4. I want to lift it like 3 or 4 inches to put "33 BFG all-terrains. im thinking about a 3 inch body lift but im not sure how easy that is.. ive heard alot about the rear bumper relocation being a pain. but i want to do whatever is the cheapest!

SOMEONE PLZZ HELP MEE!!!!!

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iniviate
crank the torsion bars and blocks in the rear...
mcreynoldsair wrote:
if your going to change your screen name need to change how you wright

no punctuation and you spelled dozier wrong
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chevy4life
Is there more to do than just cranking the torsion bars?
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iniviate
pretty sure you can clear 285/75/16's (33's) in the front by just cranking the torsions, but i've never done it myself...
mcreynoldsair wrote:
if your going to change your screen name need to change how you wright

no punctuation and you spelled dozier wrong
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chevy4life
What about some coil spacers up front and blocks in the rear?
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78malibumuddonk
You can get aftermarket torsion keys which will provide 2" of lift in the front without affecting your ride like cranking down the stocks will do and then can crank them down as well but then will need an alignment which will give you the 3-4" you want, and then blocks in the rear... stay away from body lifts, waste of money and not worth all the hassel that goes into installing them
Aint having enough fun if nothing breaks! "ENDANGERED SPECIES", GO LIKE HELL!!!
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chevy4life
One of my buddys told me something about coil spacers and blocks.. do you have any info about that?
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iniviate
chevy4life wrote:
What about some coil spacers up front and blocks in the rear?


where are you going to put the coil spacers?
mcreynoldsair wrote:
if your going to change your screen name need to change how you wright

no punctuation and you spelled dozier wrong
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chevy4life
I never really looked under the truck but he said my front end should have coils and my rear should be leafs
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iniviate
chevy4life wrote:
I never really looked under the truck but he said my front end should have coils and my rear should be leafs



he's wrong... the front is torsion bars.
mcreynoldsair wrote:
if your going to change your screen name need to change how you wright

no punctuation and you spelled dozier wrong
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78malibumuddonk
a 4x4 IFS front end will not have coil springs... your friend is right if it were 2wheel drive... iniviate you are correct though, will clear 33's in the front with no problem by just cranking the stock torsion keys, but you will need to get an alignment afterwards
Aint having enough fun if nothing breaks! "ENDANGERED SPECIES", GO LIKE HELL!!!
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k5withrocks
i have 2 tahoes on 33" tires completely stock with no lift
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Rockford514
Cranked torsion bars and 1" block
285/75/16 about 11.50x33
With a stock wheel you might go bigger

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bleweyes

78malibumuddonk wrote:
You can get aftermarket torsion keys which will provide 2" of lift in the front without affecting your ride like cranking down the stocks will do and then can crank them down as well but then will need an alignment which will give you the 3-4" you want, and then blocks in the rear... stay away from body lifts, waste of money and not worth all the hassel that goes into installing them

THat is a misleading statement, maybe for your application a body lift is a waste of money, but for some people, a body lift is a necessity in their application. 

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k5withrocks
only time you need the lift torsion keys is when your stock setup wont give enough lift when cranking the bars with the stock stuff. on my suburban i could easily max the suspension out by turning the bolts.all a key does is give more lift for less cranking of the bolt. doesnt affect the spring rate any more or less than just cranking the bolts up.there are some factory t bar spring rates that are very soft and there are factory keys that are indexed differently,it is possible to get lucky and get the soft bars with the crap keys,i just havent seen it yet.be careful with cranking em up,as soon as you lift it a lil bit the spring rate goes sky high because of the way gm designed the suspension.it is made to use the lower bumpstop as part of the spring rate. lifting it off that requires a lot more rate in the bar making it ride like a rock.also dont lift it too much,cvs are maxed out pretty easily and actually everything up friont hits its angle limit at the same time,shocks,ball joints,steering,and cvs all max right at the same angle.
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chevy4life
So would i be better off using a body lift instead of doing the torsion crank and blocks that way i can reduce the amount of wear on the cv's and ball joimts and steering and all that stuff? I have in my head the way i want the truck to look. I want it to be on 33s but i dont want the stock ride height. If a body lift is gunna be more expensive id rather go that route and take less of a chance pf blowing my cv's and ball joints ratger than having to replace them frequently
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k5withrocks
body lifts are cheap..its a lil work to install though. a body lift will be in the $200 range and probably about the same to have it installed if you dont do it yourself. wont affect the way it drives at all and will give a lil more clearance.a body lift will expose more of the frame on the botttom,but it isnt as noticable on the newer gms because the steps help cover the frame a bit.get the plastic gap gaurds that cover the openings in the fenderwell so dont see daylight on the other side and it wont look too bad.
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chevy4life
Ive installed body lifts on one of my buddys K5's and another buddys f150 so i have some experience with them. I was planning on taking the side steps off and putting some nerf bars on it, will those cover the frame as much as the plastic running boards will? But thanks for the info i never woulda known how much wear it put on the cv's and ball joints, im defimitely going with the body lift...where would be a good place to order it from? Summit racing???
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k5withrocks
wherever you get the body lift make sure it has the bumper relocating brackets.some dont. id leave the stock steps,they are very secure and they cover the frame pretty well.aftermarket nerf bars will allow you to see the frame.
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chevy4life
Okay thanks, ive heard some stuff about when relocating the back bummper i would have to cut and reweld something back to the frame.. is that true? & thanks for the info with the nerf bars, ill stick with the stock, saves some money too
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